If you go off the train at the Ostiense station in Rome, you will find all kinds of things going on.
The newly hipsterised area called Testaccio has plenty of attractions. “The old cemetery for non Catholic foreigners,” says the plaque by the door. It is also knows as Protestant cemetery or Cimitero degli Inglesi, “Englishmen’s Cemetery”. Two prominent young poets lie there, next to a Swedish doctor and an American beatnik, among many others, but more on that another time. There is peace, greenery, resident cats and some doors too, of course there are, but there are also some surprising views.